When I look back and reflect on my first winter in Paris, back in 2021, I want to go back and hug myself. It was, cold, damp, and very gloomy. Ironic, since I was in the ‘city of lights.’ I am very happy to report that ever since, things have gotten better. But it’s taken 3 years of living in Paris, and adapting myself to get to the point where winter in Paris does not bother me as much. In fact, I might now even go as far as to say that I enjoy winter in Paris. I mean talk about character development!
Winter temperatures in Paris generally hover between a little above 0°C and can go up to 10°C. So it is never that cold in Paris, but with the rain and lack of sunlight, things can get a little dull and depressing. This is especially true for the months after the holidays, when we don’t have the distractions of Christmas lights or New Year’s parties. But there are other ways of making the winter months in Paris enjoyable.
Having experienced three winters here already, I feel equipped to advise both visitors as well as new implants in Paris on how to prepare (physically and materially) for winter in the city of lights. If you are travelling to Paris, do read up on Parisian etiquette and Paris metro for all the things you should and should not do.
Don’t just ‘bundle up’, but layer like a Parisian
This might come across as a bit obvious to some. But I cannot stress enough how unprepared for European winter people from hot countries (like myself) can be. To add a (frozen) cherry atop the (frosted) cake, as if low temperatures are not enough, it is also rainy in winter in Paris!
The best tip to combat the winter freeze, is to dress the way locals do. They have it figured out! In Paris, the colder months are all about experimenting with layering. Now, the art to good layering is ensuring that your outermost garment (coat or jacket) is oversized enough. It should not look too big on you, but still be roomy enough to accommodate the 2+ layers you need underneath.
Buy a good quality thick wool coat and a couple of warm wool sweaters (or pulls, as the French say). I also wear warm stockings underneath my trousers to keep my legs warm. Bonus points for comfort if your winter coat is waterproof or at least, water repellent.
Invest in quality essentials
With the above base, add in hat, scarf and gloves, and you should be good to go.
Another tip would be to wear layers that are easy to take on and off, even in public. You will thank me when you sip coffee at an heated café and can shed your woollens without having to worry about your the ratty old T- shirt underneath, that you probably stole from your partner.
There are people who swear by thermals underneath as a base layer. But honestly, it’s not my thing. If you plan on going to dinner or get a drink at a café, it’s very easy to get overheated indoors with thermals. And they are not easy to take off without undressing yourself.
Get good waterproof shoes to keep your feet warm and dry even in rainy weather. I like wearing thick- soled leather boots which keep both the rain and cold away.
If your main winter coat/jacket and shoes are sorted, it can change your entire winter-experience. This is not an exaggeration. That is why these are worthy investment pieces in your wardrobe. Probably you will not nail Parisian fashion at the first go but you will figure it out. And be toasty!
Check if you’re running low on Vitamin D
Believe it or not, I started taking Vitamin D supplements in Paris due to a French class! It was during one of my classmate’s oral presentation for class, that I was made aware of what a crisis Vitamin D deficiency is, in Europe. The lack of motivation, the depressive thoughts, the lethargy she described as its side-effects: it all sounded like me during winter in Paris.
I went back home that day, and googled all there was about Vitamin D. As per 2019 data by French Agency for Food, Environmental and Occupational Health and Safety (ANSES), over 70% of French adults don’t have adequate vitamin D!
Next day, I spoke to my pharmacist, who prescribed me Vitamin D supplements. As soon as I took them, the upliftment in my mood, health and motivation was immediate. So do check your Vitamin D levels, especially in winter. And take supplements as per the recommendations of medical professionals.
Find your favourite Paris spots to soak in sun
No matter how cold it is outside, if you are home and feeling the winter blues, I would advise you to step outside. If there is even the littlest hint of sun, you must run out the door and try to enjoy it as much as possible. And trust Paris’s ability to inspire some measure of awe even in the heart of winter.
While I personally love Canal Saint Martin for a walk in the sun, mainly due to its proximity to my home and to good cafés, any well-exposed public park or area in Paris is a good contender. The key here is to find your own rituals. Scout your neighbourhood, and land on the sun-soaking spot that speaks to you.
Trust me, even having a favourite spot, or a bench which is part of a familiar route in a new city can do wonders for your mental health. It’s like marking a tiny sliver of the city as your own space in a big. It can help bring in some measure of order in the chaos of the new. Not to mention, much needed Vitamin D.
Try out French winter comfort foods
I guiltlessly indulge in French comfort foods in winter. It’s a proven coping strategy for the hard (and long) winter. You are going to put on a couple of kilos between seasons but sometimes it’s important to live to eat.
There are a lot of French traditional dishes which are a tad too heavy for the summer, and not easily available in warmer season. For example, Raclette is one of my ultimate favourite French winter dishes . Calling it a ‘dish’ is a misnomer since it consist of melted raclette cheese eaten with potatoes and various cold cuts.
Another hearty winter favourite is cassoulet. If you are a foodie like me, there’s no amount of decadence that is out of reach for you when it comes to French food. So make the most of the cold weather and have your fill. And when in doubt, there’s always chocolat chaud and croissants.
Explore culture
Going to the museum on a cold, rainy day is another kind of joy in itself. In Paris, a visit to the museum doesn’t have to be all about the world of ideas and intellect. It could also be about sensuality, style, witch-craft. It could even be about more ahem earthy down-to-earth topics such as Parisian sewers and transport. With the huge number of museums in Paris, you are never going to run out of options.
Like me, you can make museum visits more interesting by pretending it’s a special occasion. Dress to the nines, and finish with a delicious meal at a cosy restaurant afterwards. Or get a cocktail at a stylish bar.
Speaking of dressing up, winters are also perfect to catch up on plays, theatres, operas and ballet performances. There’s good reason why many of the great ones are usually reserved for the end and beginning of the year.
Or if you want something even more lively, watch can-can dances at Pigalle or why not venture into a burlesque show? Or catch a jazz performance at one of the many jazz clubs that Paris is dotted with.
If everything fails, take a day trip away from Paris for a change. Or take a week away and visit other parts of France. Here are my posts on Château de Chantilly and Les Jardins d’Étretat to help you with some travel inspo.
The promises of winter in Paris are endless once you start looking beyond your comfort zone. That’s the lesson I hope to remember, as I hope to discover even more ways to enjoy winter in Paris this year. Stay tuned for a follow up!
